food places in koreatown
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One of the densest neighborhoods in the city, Koreatown is home to the nation’s most diverse array of Korean restaurants, which includes plenty of Korean barbecue.The area is also home to plenty of nightclubs, dive bars, coffee shops and boba shops—in other words, a little bit of everything. Given all that, it should go without saying that finding parking is a major issue, so be prepared to navigate cash-only valets, byzantine mall parking structures and circling around the area if you’re planning to get there by car. (The Metro is also a great option for those coming in from Downtown or Hollywood.)
That being said, all the hassle is worth it in our eyes. Amid all the beautifully preserved 1920s apartment buildings and bilingual signs in both hangul and English, K-town has so much to offer, culinarily speaking, that we had trouble putting together this list. Family-run restaurants that have been around for decades mingle with newer eateries run by a younger generation of Korean Americans, with plenty of international chains looking to plant a flag in the midst of it all. We’ve included the area's best non-Korean eateries, since K-town is also home to a handful of general citywide standouts, as well as Little Bangladesh—which also make it one of best places outside of Artesia to grab South Asian cuisine.
Named for the low-slung tables used in traditional dining, Soban serves one of the best Korean meals in Los Angeles that doesn’t involve a tabletop grill. Instead, this no-frills eatery offers the city’s best assortment of banchan and first-rate ganjang gejang, a.k.a. soy-marinated raw crab. Though service may be brusque, no other Korean seafood spot can top Soban’s buttery, sweet crab marinated in a blend of green chilies, white onion and soy sauce. The dozen-odd banchan plates that come with each meal burst with flavor, texture and painstaking attention to detail, from the cabbage kimchi to the seasoned acorn jelly. You’ll also find excellent galbi jjim—braised short ribs—and a fiery black cod stew. Newcomers should note Soban’s early close (8:30pm—with last orders taken 45 minutes prior). If you can, we suggest making a reservation: Everyone from the late Jonathan Gold toParasite’s Bong Joon-ho has dined at Soban—so unless you’re visiting on a weekday afternoon, you’ll very likely have to wait for a table otherwise.
While Angelenos remain divided on their favorite everyday Korean barbecue joint, Park’s seems to be the one unifying constant for special occasions. This premier destination for platters of marinated short rib, heavily marbled rib-eye and even American Wagyu cuts takes its meat selection seriously, with the prices to match. There’s also the excellent assortment of prepared dishes, including the kimchi pancake, tofu stew and cold buckwheat noodles. If you’re the type to judge a Korean restaurant off the quality of its banchan, Park’s will more than deliver with a delicate apple and potato salad, cucumber kimchi and more. For best results, order some of everything—you won’t regret rolling out of here. If we had to single out one go-to dish, though, it’s the Korean-style beef tartare: a mellow, sweeter version of the raw dish typically found on French menus.
In the last three decades, this bright orange restaurant with pagoda roofs has put Koreatown on the map as a citywide destination for Oaxacan cuisine and garnered national awards and recognition in the process. Greatly influenced by indigenous foodways, this regional cooking style from the Mexican state is most known for introducing Americans to the many variations of rich, flavorful mole—a deep, comforting, ultra-savory sauce made with dried chilies and cacao. Though L.A. is home to many other wonderful Oaxacan restaurants (the most outside of Oaxacan itself), this family-run restaurant offers the kind of charming atmosphere (sometimes with live music) and friendly service that has made Guelaguetza a citywide institution, and the kind of place worth visiting over and over again.
Since Koreatown might be the best restaurant neighborhood in L.A., it may be the best restaurant neighborhood in the world. Culling a “best-of” list down to just 10 locations was wildly difficult, given Koreatown's density, global representation and apparent civic commitment to good eatin.' But we persevered, and came up with a collection of restaurants that represent Koreatown's present and future. Use this list as your guide to some of the most interesting food on the planet.
Here's Looking at You
Here's Looking at You, like an increasing number of compelling places to eat in Koreatown, is not a Korean restaurant. It's the brainchild of two Animal veterans — Jonathan Whitener, the former chef de cuisine, and Lien Ta, a former manager — who met while working under Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. If you followed Whitener's inventive cooking at Animal, it seemed inevitable that the chef would eventually split off to headline his own project. The bar program is proof that the most exciting cocktails in L.A. are found in restaurants as often as at bars. Try the ground brisket tartare, crowned with egg yolk, toasted chili powder, shaved turnips and sprigs of watercress, the fried prawns and any of the salads.
3901 W. Sixth St., Koreatown. (213) 568-3573, hereslookingatyoula.com.
Beer Belly
Would your doctor approve? She would not. The counter bristles with taps for beers so local that they probably could be delivered on an MTA bus, and you will be tasting several of them before you stagger out the door. Sunday brunch includes Lucky Charms pancakes with Fruity Pebbles whipped cream, and the menu suggests a beer pairing for it. The only healthy thing on the menu is the grilled broccoli, and even that comes with what the menu calls Craftsman 1903 Beer Whiz. Where we come from, Beer Whiz does not generally refer to cheese sauce. There are deep-fried Oreos for dessert, but don't let the whimsy fool you: This crew can cook. Don't forget to try something savory.
532 S. Western Ave., Koreatown. (213) 387-2337, beerbellyla.com.
Isaan StationAngelenos like to think that we know about Thai food, and it's true that our collective knowledge base is greater than the average American's. But even we would do well to venture away from our favorite menu items — and Thai Town. Located on the northern end of Koreatown, Isaan Station specializes in the food of northeast Thailand, which means a lot of grilling, a lot of herbs, and a lot of sour and spicy flavors. Plus, sticky rice with everything. Be sure to try the grilled chicken, which is a house specialty and gives the next restaurant on this list some stiff competition. The beef and pork “jerky” epitomize the funk and the sourness the Isaan region's food is known for, and the papaya salad might be (steady yourself) the best in Los Angeles.
125 N. Western Ave., Koreatown. (323) 498-2451, isaanstation.com.
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