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As more and more curious outsiders are taking a good, hard look at Cleveland, a city currently in the midst of a Rust Belt revival, they are seeing a chef-driven food scene a good 20 years in the making. These days, you can’t toss a bagel without hitting a big city bistro, craft brewery and taproom, or small-batch ice cream shop, all of which thrive alongside decades-old Cleveland classics.

Superior Pho, around since 2002, was Cleveland’s first shop dedicated to that blissful Vietnamese beef noodle soup. And in a climate like this one, where winter outlasts one’s patience, soup is a mental health requirement. But when it comes to grabbing a quick and affordable snack on the go, we tend to bypass the broth and head straight for the banh mi. At just $5 a pop, they’re bought by the sack, with each bundle of joy tidily wrapped in wax paper. Inside, crisped little baguettes are slathered with mayo and filled with roast pork, homemade pâté, crispy cukes, jalapenos and a fistful of fresh herbs, resulting in a near-perfect arrangement of texture and flavor. 

Founder Brandon Chrostowski got his start in top-tier restaurants here and abroad, but when he set out to open a Cleveland bistro of his own, he charted a very different course. In place of seasoned pros like himself, Chrostowski brought in formerly incarcerated folks who needed a second chance. During the six-month program, student-employees work every station, from prep cook to server, learning how restaurants actually work and picking up a trade that can serve them well for years to come. It would be reasonable to look at Edwins as a charity case, deserving of our money for reasons other than food, service and setting. But that’s not the case at this stellar French bistro, where quality trumps cause on a daily basis.

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Few restaurant openings — and there have been plenty — have caused as much of a stir as Butcher and the Brewer. Located in the heart of downtown’s Restaurant Row, on East Fourth Street, this boisterous beer hall is one part brewery, one part restaurant and 100 percent Cleveland. Here, fresh-brewed suds and hearty meats keep guests fat and happy. Groups large and small gather at roomy communal tables to snack on housemade charcuterie, crisp corn dogs made with house-smoked weenies, and mashed-potato-and-pierogi pizzas. The menu is stocked with meaty mains like pork belly and eggs, smoked lamb ribs, and the house cut of the day. Craft beer fans can savor a wide range of proprietary ales, brewed in plain sight in the gorgeous brewhouse. 

Dating back to the 1920s, Mahall’s 20 Lanes was long a family-friendly bowling alley, where dads taught their boys how to roll on rainy weekends. But as the neighborhood around the bowling alley grew younger and hipper, the lane rentals began to dry up. Cue Mahall’s 2.0. New ownership revamped, repurposed and resurrected this Cleveland classic into a multilevel playland with homemade cooking, craft beer and cocktails, and live music. Neighbors come for the burgers, tacos and fried chicken, and they stick around for the lineup of great acts. The lanes are still here, too, with all 20 of them seeing more life than they have in ages. 

Unless you’ve hopped on board the vegan bandwagon, you won’t want to miss Scioto Ribber. Ranked as the number one restaurant in Portsmouth by Trip Advisor reviewers, its hearty BBQ sandwiches, tender ribs, and mammoth steaks are a carnivore’s dream.

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Just be warned, this isn’t the place for people with tiny appetites and a preference for plants – the portions are generous and, save for a side salad, the only thing veggie-friendly on the menu are the battered onion rings.

If you’re looking to enjoy a lazy weekend brunch, you’ll find no better place to eat it than at Lucky’s Cafe in Cleveland. As Eater explains, chef, owner, and devoted locavore Heather Haviland sources all her eggs, dairy, produce, and meats from local farms.

This results in a dazzlingly fresh, lively menu stuffed with tasty eats like cheddar-scallion scones piled high with eggs and sausage gravy and Ohio sweetcorn waffles served with strawberry compote. If you arrive on a sunny day, skip the indoor tables and grab a seat on the pretty terrace instead.

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